Swan Oyster Depot is probably my favorite seafood restaurant in the world.
In doing some research for this (read: casual Googling), I saw that in 2021 it was accused of being racist towards Asians or non-white customers in general. The accusation centers around the phrase they use to call out customers who order with more than one server – ‘dim sum’. In my opinion, the issue was overblown and was piled on by internet frenzy. Being a 1st generation Asian, I am typically sensitive to derogatory or snide remarks tossed my way, but I’ve heard the Swan Oyster guys in action, and calling them racist couldn’t be further from the truth, though their vocabulary probably needs to be updated.
The service and attitude here reminds me of Peter Luger – they are helpful but short with words, and if you see the line out the door, you’ll know why. Sometimes their attention is hard to get, and I found it best to raise my hand like I’m in class. If you’re offended by the service at Luger, then I recommend you stay away.
Each time I’m in San Francisco, I make an effort to visit Swan Oyster Depot, sometimes more than once, if what I’m after isn’t in stock. Founded after WWII, Swan remains a family affair, and is (frustratingly) cash only to this day. There’s typically 4-6 people behind the counter, each serving a few customers directly, cracking crab shells, scooping shrimp, and making salads. It’s a bare handed affair that admittedly caught me by surprise during my first visit, but a taste of their seafood wiped any concerns away. I’ve yet to have any issues with the food so far.
Be aware, if you visit anything short of an hour before opening, there will be a line. Tourists and locals line up early to get their freshest items – if you’re lucky, you can snag one of the few fresh sea urchin that they have from time to time.
Stick to the fresh seafood – the prawn, crab salad, cracked dungeness crab, and any of the seafood cocktails are must-try items. Make sure you do the crab shell as well. The crab fat salad dressing is to die for.
There’s a number of ‘secret’ items that you can order off-menu, and they are highly recommended. Order the sicilian sachimi – a mix of salmon, yellowtail, tuna dressed with olive oil and capers, and the ‘eggs’ – ordered by the dozen or half dozen, sliced raw scallops with a dot of sriracha and swimming in ponzu.
Seating is extremely limited – bar seating only – and the bathroom is tiny but serviceable. Plan for an hour or two here, chat with the Swan boys, and have a great time.